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1-800-983-POOL
1-800-983-7665

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Installation Information

1. Sizing and ordering your Solar System:

1. Multiply the average length by the average width of your pool to determine the total surface area of your pool. For example, if your pool is 20 ft. x 30 ft this equals a 600 sq. ft pool. For every square ft. of pool surface area, order an equal amount of linear feet of collector material. Each roll is 200 linear feet . In our example, you would order a minimum of 600 linear feet of collector material, or 3 rolls. (Each roll is 6 inches wide by 200 feet long.) This is a suggested minimum size based on typical heating performance and past customer satisfaction. Larger solar systems and a solar blanket can be used to gain even higher temperatures and longer swim seasons.
2. The required amount of manifolds needed will depend on how many collectors are being installed. You will need a pair of manifolds for each collector. A rule of thumb for ordering manifolds is 4 manifolds for every 200 ft.
3. One installation kit is required for each system. Installation kit includes: 3-way solar valve, 2" check valve, vacuum relief valve, hose bib, four PVC adaptors, two bushings, attachment clamps, collector material for making collector straps, installation manual, video, and repair kit.
4. The manifolds require rubber hoses and clamps to connect one manifold to the next. For every manifold purchased two rubber hoses and four #4O stainless steel clamps.
5. Silicone spray is required for assembling the manifolds to the collector material.

1. Here are the most common design options for solar heating systems.

Diagram #1
2. Consider all possible locations for installing your solar collectors.
1. You can use any sloped roof that does not face to the north. The most effective orientations are towards the south, west and east.
2. You can mount the collector on any flat roof or patio cover.
3. You can put the collector on more than one roof area to gain the desired total size. For example, on one roof that faces towards your back yard and one that faces to the side yard.

(See Diagram #1)
4. A new structure can be built specifically to accommodate the solar heater.
3. Check for shading of the solar heater location. Direct sunshine hitting heater unit is what produces heat for the pool. Even on a very hot day, a solar heater won't warm the water if it is shaded. Trees may need to be trimmed or cut.
4. Consider the routing for the two 2" PVC pipes that will transport the water back and forth between the pool equipment area and the solar heater. There is usually more than one way to accomplish this. If the pool equipment is not right next to the structure where the solar heater will be installed the feed/return pipes are typically put underground.

Important: The solar heater should be plumbed so that the water in the solar collector can gravity drain back to the pool every day once the filter pump has turned off. Diagram #2

3. Tools and Equipment needed: Sturdy ladder, tape measure, tube of clear silicone sealant and applicator gun, can of silicone spray lubricant. PVC primer and glue, PVC cutter or hacksaw, 2" PVC pipe and fittings, 2" stainless steel pipe clamps, 2" rubber hose, Teflon tape, power drill with 5/16" and 1/4" sockets, sharp razor blade knife, 1/4" lag bolts and washers (1 1/2" to 3" in length, depending on roof type), plastic anchors for lag bolts, and paint to match house color.

Note: It is assumed that you are familiar with cutting and gluing PVC pipe. If not, call SPP for instructions. It is not difficult, but a little experience helps.

1. Measure the roof. We suggest drawing a diagram of the roof, with all measurements top-to-bottom and side-to-side. Note that the flexible Suntrek collectors can be installed around roof pipes, and can be modified to fit on odd-shaped roofs.
2. Decide on how many collectors will fit on the desired area. Each manifold will require 28 inches of roof space after they are coupled together. For example, if you have a roof that is 180 inches from top-to-bottom, you can install six manifolds (6 X 28"=168"). If you have an odd shaped roof, where the collectors are different sizes, take into account the added space required. (For example, two 90 degree fittings and PVC adaptors may be needed to connect the collector manifolds. These fittings will account for additional roof space.) We advise leaving at least 6" of roof space at the top and bottom of the solar collectors for working room.
3. Make a decision about the length of the solar collectors. The length of the flexible collectors can be as long as 50 feet. The uncut roll contains 200 feet of material, so consider this when deciding on the length to cut each strip. For example, it might make more sense to make the collector 40 feet long, rather than 42 feet long. We advise leaving a minimum of 12" for working room at each side of the solar collectors.
4. Unroll the collector material on a level area on the ground, such as a driveway. Cut the material to the desired length with sharp scissors or a razor blade knife and straight edge. A clean straight cut is important. We advise making practice cuts on the installation kit collector material before cutting the actual collectors. Measure carefully before making each cut. Four pieces of collector material, make up one collector.
5. Attach the collectors to the manifolds by sliding the tubes over the barbs. This can either be done on the roof or the ground. It may be easier to work on the ground, but the assembled units will then be heavier to transport to the roof. Two people on two ladders may be needed. Slide on three to six tubes at a time, tearing apart 8 inches of the connecting tubes to separate the six tubes. Spray silicone lubricant on the barbs and in the tubes sparingly to help slide the tubes on. See illustration Diagram #3.

Note: Only silicone lubricant can be used. Slide the tubes completely on to the barbs. Be careful not to put too much sideways pressure on the barbs. Do not use any petroleum based lubricant, silicone spray only.

View Diagram #4

6. Install the vacuum relief valve.

1. Wrap Teflon tape around the threads of the vacuum relief valve.
2. Screw valve into the 2" X 3/4" threaded bushing.
3. Glue the bushings into a 2" 90 degree PVC fitting ( 90 degree PVC fitting is not supplied).
4. Attach the 90 degree fitting to the PVC adaptor.
5. Attach the vacuum relief valve assembly to the top of the manifold on the feed side.

7. Install the hose bib.

1. Wrap Teflon tape around the thread of the 3/4" hose bib.
2. Screw hose bib into 2" X 3/4" threaded bushing.
3. Glue the bushing into a 2" 90 degree fitting. (90 degree fitting is not supplied).
4. Attach the 90 degree fitting into the PVC adaptor.
5. Attach the hose bib assembly to the bottom of the manifold on the return side.

8. Install PVC adaptors to the feed and return manifolds so you can hook up your PVC feed and return lines.

9. Secure the system to the roof.

1. Using the extra collector material supplied in the installation kit, make enough manifold straps for each hose connection. You may also use these straps for all your plumbing on the roof. Each manifold attachment strap will be 3 tubes wide by 14 1/2" long. See Diagram #4.
2. Select the proper length 1/4" lag bolt for attaching to the roof. If you are installing the system on a tile roof, you will need to pre-drill a hole with a 1/4" masonry bit and insert a plastic anchor to hold the lag bolt. Do not tighten the lag bolt too tight, as to avoid breaking the tile. See Diagram #4.
3. Use the lag bolt and washer to secure the manifold strap. See Diagram #4.

Important: Apply silicone sealant generously in and around the bolt holes in the roof to avoid leaks. Bolt down all the manifold coupling straps on one side (feed or return) of the solar manifolds before starting the other side. Make sure the manifolds are in a straight line.

11. Approximately every 4 feet, weave 2 pairs of tubes of the provided collector material through the collectors on the roof. Clamp the bottom of the woven tubes securely to the roof using the lag bolt and washer. Then pull the 2 pair tube pieces tight and clamp at each gap, working from the bottom collector to the top. Again, apply silicone sealant to each and every penetration. See Diagram #4

Note: If you prefer, the flexible collectors can be fastened to the roof with an adhesive rather than using the strapping method. Call SPP for details & availability. For this application, we suggest a 1-1/2" bead of adhesive every 3 feet.

For installation on open patio covers. We suggest installing a shade cloth over the cover before installing the solar collectors. This will give a better appearance from below and support the collectors above.

For installation on ground racks. We suggest that the lower side of the rack be about 6" off the ground, and the upper side no more than 3" off the ground, facing the sun. Racks should be sturdy and cement footings should be poured to fix the rack to the ground. Plywood sheeting or a shade cloth can be used to support the collector.

For steep roofs or unusual situations: The solar collectors can be mounted vertically with the manifolds on the top and bottom of the roof.

See Diagram #8

13. Install the feed and return pipes from the solar heater to the pool equipment. If the pool equipment is not next to the building where the solar collectors are mounted, the 2" Schedule 40 PVC pipes are generally run underground. Local codes vary, but a typical depth is 18". If you are installing a solar control system, it may be necessary to run a 1/2 inch electrical conduit from the pool equipment to the side of the house for the solar sensor wire. Pipes can often be run under sidewalks, but if necessary, concrete can be cut. Cut out a 6" piece and replace with decorative bricks or patch with concrete. For the run up a post or wall, secure the pipes with 2 " single hole pipe clamps. We recommend using Schedule 80 gray pipe for the roof plumbing. If not available, paint the PVC pipes. If there is no way to install the plumbing without going up and over a roof line, then a separate drain line will need to be installed. Contact Specialty Pool Products for advice on this. It is extremely important that the solar collector gravity-drain when not in use. Paint the pipes going up the house a color that matches the house paint.

Note: Consult your local building code prior to installing your solar heating system, a building permit may be required. The national testing lab for solar pool collectors is the Florida Solar Energy Center. The building department may ask for Suntrek's official certification number. That number is FSEC 92012.

1. If you have solar controls, check that the power light is on and the thermostat is set in a "high" position. (You will need to find your ideal setting after the pool warms up.)
2. If you have a manual valve, set it to the heating position (sending the water up to the solar system). For small solar systems that have high GPM ( Gallons per minute ) pumps, it may be necessary to adjust the pins on the solar valve to by-pass a % of water going to the solar heater.
3. Set your filter-pump time clock to turn on at the time that the sun directly hits the collectors in the morning (10:00 AM), and to turn off when the sun stops hitting the collectors (5:00 PM).

Note: If the solar collectors are operated when the sun is not shining directly on them (at night or a rainy day), it will cool off the pool. If you have solar controls, a solar sensor will keep this from happening. (lf you live in an environment, where pools become too hot during the mid-summer months, you can intentionally run the collectors at night to cool the pool.)

4. For swimming during long-night/cooler weather months, it is recommended that a solar blanket be floated on the surface of the pool to help prevent over night heat loss.
5. In areas that are subject to freezing conditions, the solar system MUST be shut off and drained during freezing periods to protect all component parts of the solar system. See "To freeze-protect system".
6. Never let water remain stagnant in the collectors (be certain system is gravity draining when off).

Auto: In the "Auto" position, the control system will cause water to circulate through the solar collectors, when there is sufficient solar energy to add heat. If there is insufficient solar energy ( as on a rainy day), or if the desired pool temperature had been reached, the control will automatically turn off the solar collectors.

Off: In the "Off" position, water will bypass the solar collectors and circulate in its regular filter cycle.

On (Manual over ride): The "On" position is generally used to cool the pool or test the system. Water flows through the solar collectors regardless of the pool temperature or presence of solar energy.

17. If pool is not getting warm enough in sunny conditions:

1. The filter may be dirty or clogged-check flow strength at pool outlets.
2. The timer clock may not be set for best sunshine times of the day.
3. The thermostat may be set too low ( if automatic system).
4. Valve may be turned off-check water routing.
5. Pump may be weak and not be pumping a sufficient volume of water.
6. Off-season months may require solar blanket on pool to prevent night-time heat loss.
7. Additional collectors may be necessary.

1. Position solar control switch to "Off"(If solar control system), OR turn solar valve to by-pass position (If Manual system).
2. Wait 10-15 minutes to be sure system has drained completely.
3. Open hose bib on roof to drain any remaining water from collectors. You can hook up an air compressor to the hose bib to blow collectors empty if there is any doubt that they are not completely drained.
4. Leave system like this until after freeze conditions are over.

1. It is NOT RECOMMENDED to use either the type of chlorinators that are installed on the suction side of the pump or tablets in the skimmer, as these methods create very heavy concentrations of chlorine and acid (which can cause damage to all your pool equipment, as well as the solar system.)
2. IF AN "IN-LINE" TYPE OF CHLORINATOR IS TO BE USED, IT MUST BE INSTALLED DOWNSTREAM OF ALL EQUIPMENT, INCLUDING THE SOLAR HEATER VALVE.
3. To obtain maximum life for the solar collectors, it is recommended that the solar system not be operated for at least 48 hours after shocking the pool.
4. If your pool has a separate pump for a cleaning system (i.e. Polaris), the feed line for this pump should be BEFORE the solar equipment, so that the cleaner pump is not starved when the solar collectors are momentarily being filled.
5. Turn solar system OFF before back washing the filter. (Do not turn solar back on until filter system has run for at least 20 minutes after back washing has been completed.)

1. It may be a health hazard to heat pools or spas over 105 degrees.
2. Shut off circuit breaker before working on any electrical equipment.
3. Turn solar system off while manually vacuuming pool.
4. Do not walk on collector units when possible.
5. Be careful using your ladder and working up on the roof.
6. Solar heating systems that are larger than 2000 linear feet, consult with SPP to determine the proper sizing of feed and return lines and booster pump requirements.

Problem: Puncture in a water tube.

Locate and mark the exact position of the leak with chalk. Shut off the pump. Then use a sharp knife or razor blade to separate the leaking tube from the adjoining tubes, being VERY careful not to cut into any of the other tubes. Cut 6" to 8" along both sides of the leaking tube. Then cut through the leaking tube right at the spot where it is leaking and insert the black hollow splicer. Push the ends of the tubes together so they meet at the middle of the splicer. This completes the repair.

Good luck with installing your
solar system and enjoy your warm pool!!

For assistance in sizing or ordering
please call SPP Toll Free at
1-800-983-POOL
1-800-983-7665

- Suntrek Main Page -

System Design - Before buying a Solar Heating System
About Suntrek - Sizing your heating system - Installation
Technical Information - Actual Installations - Installation Video

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Specialty Pool Products 1-800-983-POOL 1-800-983-7665